The ultimate guide to beauty sleep

It sounds like a myth but there’s a substantial amount of science that backs the concept of beauty sleep. Whilst this doesn’t mean you should expect a miraculous overnight transformation; it does mean that putting in the effort to establish and maintain a consistent sleeping routine will benefit your skin in the long-term. 

Good sleep is also vital for the skin to function efficiently, with studies finding that long-term sleep disturbance is associated with increased signs of ageing and diminished skin barrier function.*  

What happens to our skin when we sleep 

Our skin repairs any daily extrinsic and intrinsic damage at night through cell renewal, with the hours between 10pm and 2am being the optimal time for repair. Blood flow is increased to the skin at night, delivering oxygen and nutrients to help to rebuild along with growth hormones, which are crucial for protein synthesis. Sleep also helps to reduce cortisol (the stress hormone). 

Adults between the ages of 18-64 years old are advised to get 7-9 hours of sleep daily, but it’s the quality of sleep you get that makes the difference. The skin’s circadian rhythms navigate your sleep and during the night, your body releases anti-stress and anti-inflammatory hormones which trigger the skin’s renewal processes. If you don’t get enough sleep, the process is affected, and poor sleeping patterns can lead to dehydration and an impaired skin barrier.   

Sleep has been found to be split into two stages – REM (rapid eye movement) and NREM (non-rapid eye movement). Each night, your sleep will alternate through cycles of REM and NREM sleep every 90 minutes, with REM sleep making up between 20-25% of total sleep.** A lack of REM sleep can lead to a weakened immune system and the growth of new healthy cells may be blocked. 

Effects of lack of sleep 

Whilst lack of sleep may not be the cause of the circles, darkness under the eyes can be intensified by a disruption in the detoxification process our skin undergoes at night. The sleep-deprived are said to experience higher levels of transepidermal water loss, which leads to dehydrated skin and contributes to accelerated ageing. 

Of course, sleep benefits more than just our complexion. Getting enough sleep is vital for our health and overall wellbeing too. ‘Sleep is not just something we do when we have no time – it is how the body detoxifies itself and reboots,’ explains Gerry Hussey, Performance Coach and member of The Skin Nerd’s Health & Wellness Panel. ‘Sleep is massively important for our health and the health of our organs. Whilst it is not always easy to get 8 hours sleep, we must understand that when we are sleep deprived, we do not just feel tired. We’ve five major organs and each organ is in a cycle of 90 minutes, so 5 x 90 is 7.5 hours, which is why we need 8 hours sleep.’ 

Sleep hygiene is another phrase we shouldn’t overlook, with good sleep habits essential in maintaining a routine. ‘We should try to get to bed around 10pm because that is when the detoxification system starts. If we are not going to bed until 11.30pm then we have already missed the first cycle. Your organs detoxify and your brain produces a thing called BDNF, a chemical that allows your brain to rebuild. So, the whole healing and rebuilding of your body happens when you are asleep, and it needs time to do that.’ 

This sounds great in theory, but there are many of us that cannot get 8 hours of sleep nightly. ‘Of course, people with young kids will know that you cannot always get 8 hours sleep and that is fine, but if your sleep is deprived at nighttime then try a small meditation during the day - you have to rebuild your recovery somehow.’ 

How to prep for good quality sleep 

Be mindful of your diet: ‘A lot of us are bad sleepers because of our diet and consuming too much processed food.’ Caffeine is of course, highlighted as one to avoid before bedtime, but chocolate and sugary cereal can also cause blood sugar level spikes and disrupt you from winding down. 

Limit evening screen time: ‘We are on our phones too much. We need melatonin to sleep and one of the ways we produce melatonin is by being in a dark environment. A lot of us watch TV in our rooms before bed, we look at our phones and that blue light hits our brain and we think its morning time, so the brain not only doesn’t produce melatonin, but it produces cortisol, which means we are awake again. It comes down to your habits. So, two hours before you go to bed, you should not be eating or drinking, you should not be on your phone, and you should be winding down.’ 

Every room in the house should have one function: ‘We learn through association, so your body gets used to a certain smell, feel in a room, and attaches a certain function to that. This means, if you are watching TV in bed, your brain does not really know why it is in this room. So, the bedroom should be for sleep only. It should be dark, and you should avoid leaving your phone by or charging close to your bed. If you must work in the bedroom, try to open the windows and doors, and create a different feel in the bedroom between functions. You could also undress the bed - psychologically this helps you to change the energy and the feel of the room and gets it ready for sleep. At nighttime, begin your routine (of winding down for sleep) whether that means having a shower or having some warm milk. Even if you have been working in your bedroom during the day, now you have the laptop put away, you have dressed the bed and changed clothes – these things alone are nice trigger systems for the body which makes it realise that it may be the same room, but it is switched into a different mode. You can also put your phone and laptop into a box at the end of each working day as this helps you to compartmentalize your life.’ 

Try to manage your stress levels: Rest is vital for recharging your batteries and cell repair but can be difficult in times of stress. Research has revealed that people with higher levels of stress are more likely to suffer from insomnia (Pillai et al, 2014), which is very unhelpful when those who are stressed would especially benefit from a good night’s sleep! If you are struggling to get some shut eye, visit your GP to discuss ways to get your sleeping habits on track. 

Sleeping beauty staples 

All hype or essential in the name of sleepmaxxing? We give our verdict on the latest slumber focused trends... 

Magnesium supplements: Magnesium is a mineral nutrient that helps to regulate nerve and muscle function, blood sugar and blood pressure, and is essential for building healthy bones.  ‘Magnesium is often included in sleep supplements due to its role in muscle relaxation, nervous system regulation, and melatonin production, explains Professor Caitriona Ryan, Dermatologist at Institute of Dermatologists, Ireland (instituteofdermatologists.ie) and member of The Skin Nerd Health & Wellness Panel. ‘There is some evidence that magnesium may help improve sleep quality, particularly for those with deficiencies, anxiety, or restless sleep. While better sleep can indirectly support skin repair and hydration, magnesium itself isn’t a skin-enhancing supplement. A consistent sleep schedule, proper hydration, and a strong nighttime skincare routine will have far greater benefits for skin health.’ If you do decide to start a supplement, always check with your GP or pharmacist first.

Mouth Tape: The uglier you go to bed, the prettier you wake up – or so TikTok would have us believe! Mouth tape has been trending as a remedy for ‘mouth breathers,’ and thought to encourage us to breathe through the nose instead. Why is this preferable? Breathing solely through the mouth is said to potentially lead to a number of issues including gum disease, poor positioning of the jaw and a higher incidence of sleep apnea. However, taping our mouths shut does trigger anxiety for many of us – is it even safe? ‘Mouth taping, which claims to promote nasal breathing for better oxygenation and improved sleep, has gained popularity recently, however, the scientific evidence supporting its benefits is weak, and its risks may outweigh any potential gains,’ comments Caitriona. ‘Potential risks include breathing obstruction – If you have nasal congestion, allergies, or an undiagnosed sleep disorder (such as sleep apnea), taping your mouth shut could worsen airflow issues, skin irritation or allergic reactions – adhesives can cause irritation, breakouts, or sensitivity around the mouth, and discomfort and disturbed sleep. Many people find mouth taping uncomfortable or disruptive rather than helpful, leading to poorer sleep quality, which can negatively impact skin repair.’ Caitriona explains that there is no direct evidence that mouth taping improves skin health, ‘While nasal breathing theoretically reduces moisture loss from the mouth, there is no substantial research proving that it prevents dehydration-related skin concerns. While proper nasal breathing is important, forcing it through mouth taping is not the best solution, especially without medical guidance. If dry mouth is a concern, humidifiers and staying hydrated throughout the day are safer and more practical solutions. Good hydration and barrier-supporting skincare are far more effective strategies for maintaining skin moisture overnight.’ 

Silk Pillowcases: Silk pillowcases have been claimed to deliver a host of hair and beauty benefits, including minimising ‘crush wrinkles’ and the sleep creases that we can get from sleeping on cotton, but is this another case of hype over substance? ‘Silk pillowcases are often promoted as anti-ageing and skin-smoothing, with claims that they prevent wrinkles and help maintain moisture levels,’ says Caitriona. ‘While silk does have a smooth texture, reducing friction against the skin and hair, the actual dermatological benefits are modest at best. The real issue isn’t the fabric—it’s how your face is compressed against the pillow. Sleep creases form from repetitive pressure on the skin, subcutaneous fat, and even bone structure over time. This is why I personally recommend a structured anti-ageing pillow, which supports back sleeping to minimise facial compression (available online or in clinic at Institute of Dermatologists). If you’re considering a silk pillowcase but don’t want the expense, satin (a type of weave rather than a fabric) can offer similar smoothness. However, neither will significantly alter skin aging or acne risk—your sleep position and skincare routine matter much more.’ 

Professor Caitriona’s dermatologist-approved tips for boosting skin renewal during sleep 

I tell my patients that the morning regimen is for protection and the nighttime regimen is for repair and regeneration. 

Prioritise back sleeping: The most effective way to prevent sleep creases and volume loss is to minimise facial compression. 

Use retinoids (if tolerated): Retinoids stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell turnover, making them the gold standard for nighttime skin renewal. 

Apply an overnight moisturiser or barrier repair cream: The skin loses more moisture at night due to trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), so using ceramides, peptides, and hyaluronic acid can support hydration and barrier function. 

Maintain a cool, dark sleeping environment: A cooler room (18-20°C) and blackout curtains help optimise melatonin production, which in turn reduces oxidative stress and supports skin repair. 

Sources 

* Oyetakin-White P, Suggs A, Koo B, Matsui MS, Yarosh D, Cooper KD, Baron ED. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2015 Jan;40(1):17-22. doi: 10.1111/ced.12455. Epub 2014 Sep 30. PMID: 25266053.  

** Division of Sleep Medicine at Harvard Medical School. (2007, December 18). Natural Patterns of Sleep